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| The Day after Pope Francis's election, Piazza San Francesco a Ripa.
©Tiffany Parks |
Since I live on a street dedicated to St.
Francis of Assisi, and since I can see a church dedicated to St. Francis of
Assisi right out my bedroom window, and since my darling Maritino and I were married by a Franciscan priest, and since our
current ever more lovable Pope chose his papal name (many believe) to honor St.
Francis of Assisi, I figured it would be a good idea to write a little post today on 4 October, on
occasion of the feast day of one of Italy’s all-time best-loved saints.
Instead going into St. Francis’s life andworks, which I’m guessing most people are already familiar with, I thought I’d
suggest five ways to celebrate his feast day, and five different Italian cities
in which to do it.
Assisi
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| Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi.
[source]
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As the saint’s hometown, this is the
obvious choice. In fact, this is where Pope Francis himself decided to
celebrate St. Francis’s Day, so expect a lot of crowds if you choose this
option. Besides the sheer majesty of the 13th-century basilica, one of the most
important fresco cycles of the great Giotto di Bondone, and in fact one of the
most celebrated works of art of that magical period when the buds of medieval
art began to blossom into the Renaissance.
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| The Woman's Confession, Giotto. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [source] |
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| The Dream of the Palace, Giotto. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [source] |
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| San Francis receives the Stigmata, Giotto. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [source] |
The 28 frescoes that line the lower
section of the nave of the Basilica of San Francesco d’Assisi tell the story of
the saint’s life and are believed to have been painted between 1296 and 1304.
Bonus: an even earlier portrait of St. Francis, by late-medieval master
Cimabue, can be seen on the transept wall. The fresco, Our Lady Enthroned with St. Francis, dates to 1280 and features one
of the most well known depictions of the saint.
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| Our Lady Enthroned with St. Francis, Cimabue. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [source] |
The basilica also contains the
saint’s tomb.
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| Tomb of St. Francis of Assisi. Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi, Assisi. [source] |
Florence
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| Basilica of Santa Trinità, Florence. [source] |
If you prefer high Renaissance art to late
medieval/early Renaissance crossover art, and you happen to be in Florence today,
you’re in luck! Head to Santa Trinità church where you can visit the Sassetti
Chapel, containing an exquisite fresco cycle by Domenico Ghirlandaio (who just
happened to be Michelangelo’s first master, and one of the painters of the
walls of the Sistine Chapel). The fresco, dating from 1482-1485, depict several
scenes of St. Francis’s life, including the receiving of the stigmata, the confirmation
of Franciscan rule, and the resurrection of a boy.
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| Confirmation of Franciscan Rule, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [source] |
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| St. Francis's Trial by Fire, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [source] |
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| Death of St. Francis of Assisi, Ghirlandaio. Church of Santa Trinità, Florence. [source] |
Chiusi della Verna
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| Santuario della Verna, Chiusi della Verna. [source] |
Not many tourists make it to this tiny
little town in the province of Arezzo, but if you’re in the general area today,
consider a visit to the Santuario della Verna, just a few miles outside of
town. In addition to its evocative setting, perched on an outcropping of Mount
Penna, the sanctuary is also renowned for being the site at which St. Francis
received the stigmata, on 14 September 1224. You can also visit a small museum
attached to the sanctuary where you can see St. Francis’ rough habit, slightly
moth-eaten, but still intact.
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| Habit of St. Francis of Assisi, Santuario della Verna, Chiusi della Verna. [source] |
Subiaco
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| St. Benedict's Monastery, Subiaco. [source] |
This gorgeous hilltop town, famous for its
medieval Benedictine monasteries, is not generally associated with St. Francis
of Assisi, but there is one notable curiosity for those seeking to pay homage
to the saint today. In St. Gregory’s Chapel in the Monastery of St. Benedict is
only known portrait of St. Francis painted during his lifetime. The portrait
shows neither halo nor stigmata, showing it was indeed painted before the
saint’s death in 1226. If you want an idea of what he actually looked like,
this is probably as close as you’ll come.
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| Portrait of St. Francis of Assisi, St. Gregory's Chapel, St. Benedict's Monastery, Subiaco. [source] |
Rome
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| Church of San Francesco a Ripa, Rome.
©Tiffany Parks
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If you’re in the Eternal City today, never
fear! You don’t have to travel anywhere if you want to make a St. Francis
pilgrimage of your own. The church of San Francesco a Ripa in Trastevere is
attached to a convent that housed St. Francis when he was in Rome in 1209
seeking recognition of his order by Pope Innocent III. If you ask the custodian
nicely (and if your shoulders and knees are modestly covered!) he’ll happily
take you up to the very cell St. Francis slept in, complete with the very stone
he used for a pillow, which visitors are allowed to touch.
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| The rock St. Francis used as a pillow, Cell of St. Francis of Assisi, Church of San Francesco a Ripa, Rome. [source] |
While you visit the church (which by the
way also contains Bernini’s late masterpiece The Ecstasy of the Beata Ludovica Albertoni), take a moment to
wallow bitterly in the knowledge that this unassuming little trasteverina church once contained,
along the walls of the nave, the prototype of the legendary Giotto cycle in
Assisi. The frescoes depicting scenes from the life of St. Francis, attributed
to Pietro Cavallini, are sadly now lost. “Now lost”: two words that inspire the
wrenching of hearts and gnashing of teeth of many an art lover.
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